I have a working version of this project, on a Breadboard, have a schematic and PCB drawn up. Should be sending the PCB request out soon.

The three images used at the original project are kind of hard to follow. I have also removed the Enable part, which has the 2N3904 resistor and added a "pulse" pin for use with my ATTiny2313 Breakout Board. The image below is a schematic I drew up for this project...


...and the screen shot of the FreePCB worksheet...


...and the breadboard (messy, but all of it is coming off to go onto the PCB).



Thanks goes to this project for inspiration for me to build my own.

I have a 12 volt solar battery charger for car batteries. I thought I would make a small phone charger using a LM7805 and a few caps and resistors and see if I can get that same solar cell to charge my phone. I will report on it when I am finished. Currently, the PCB is only a little more than a single square inch. Cheap at OSH Park.

I also ordered a few more resistor/cap value-packs from Futurlec. A good value if you can wait the couple of weeks for delivery.

Also expecting a bit of parts from Mouser.

I am currently working on a version of this project, waiting on parts. I don't believe the "Enable" and 2N3904 is needed, so I have removed that from my schematic. (We will see, after all, I am still a newbie at this stuff). I had all but the TCRT1000, 2362, and the MCP6004.

The builder on that site left lots of real estate on the board. If you can make the same project using a lot less real estate, you can get a board built cheeply at OSH Park. The Password Generator project below was less than 5 USD including shipping for multiple boards.

I started getting my PCB Boards at Batch PCB. They had a great service and was fairly cheap. You could get 2 boards for about 3 USD a square inch. You would submit your board design, their system would verify it, and depending on whether it passed or not, you would get an email stating so. If it didn't pass, you would get an image back with the offending error(s). Their shipping was cheap and timely, however they charged a 10 USD fee for panelization. I was spending 15 to 20 USD for two small boards.

Recently, they decided to change their website design. Without sounding harsh, it sucks. It "jumped the shark". It no longer has all of the nice features it use to have. I sent a new project in to get it verified and it failed. I sent an existing project in, one that passed before, and it failed too. In my opinion, the new (or existing) web master wanted a more "easy on the eyes" than a well worked tool. It bombed.

Therefore, I went looking for another manufacturer. I found OSH Park. Their service is a little less than what BatchPCB use to be and they only except Paypal or Google Wallet payments. You can not use a credit card like you can with BatchPCB. I also was not impressed with their webpage. I think the scripting needs a little more work. There is no status page until you actually receive the status email from OSH Park, which can be an hour later.

However, after purchasing a few boards, I got more use to the way that it is done, and now expect the process that takes place. Also, and the most important part is that it is much cheaper. Almost double the price as BatchPCB per square inch, but no 10 USD processing/panelizing fee, and no shipping cost within the US. I haven't received my boards yet, as soon as I do, I will post a follow-up.

Only one other worry I have is that all lines (text, etc) must be of a certian minimum thickness. I am afriad some of the text and silk layer will be hard to read due to the process of "thinkening to the minimum" when manufacturing.

I have built the Password Generator Jokkebk built at Code and Life (update) on a bread board. I since then have decided to get a PCB manufactured for it. (Contact me if you are interested in one or go to Oshpark and order the PCB only, for yourself.)

I added two LED's, a green to indicate power, and a red that will light when the password is transmitted. When these come in, I will see if I got the holes in the right place :-).

Get the .c and the .hex file to be flashed to the chip from here (.hex) and here (.c).

I have slightly modified my ATTINY2313 Breakout Board Rev 1.3 and since sent in for PCB manufacturing. Contact me if you are interested in one. You can get the PCB only, PCB with parts unassembled, or PCB and parts assembled. If you just want the PCB, you can go to Oshpark and order it for yourself. I think it is around $11.50 USD.

The only change is the unneeded cap just below the chip along with re-routing most of the traces to be cleaner and more efficient. This should be the last revision. I have learned a lot from doing it and hope to learn a lot more with the devices that I make from it.

See this page for a parts list and/or Appendix Q for a schematic and how to program the board to create USB devices of your own.

I have decided to start a blog showing off the projects I have done or will do pertaining to electronics, mainly USB, and my book. This is my first, so let's see how it goes.

A very special thanks goes to Jokkebk for helping me want to have the desire to start this blog, and for its initial layout. Thanks Jokkebk.